Hellenic Malt Whisky Society Discussing with Mrs. Alex Thomas Master Blender at Sexton Single Malt / Old Bushmills Distillery / Causeway Distillery

[mallios]

IM. Notice. 

Please feel free to read the interview in our forum, download the interview in pdf format (attached) or read the interview as a flipbook here.

https://online.fliphtml5.com/ysqmr/dhll/

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Dear Mrs. Thomas, Dear Alex.

On behalf of the Hellenic Malt Whisky Society and whiskyforum.gr I really want to thank you for the opportunity to have you participate in our interviews section.

Irish whiskey and the Old Bushmills Distillery have a lot of fans in our forum and having the chance to discuss with You was a real challenge.

You are the first “whisky woman” from Northern Ireland and Ireland in general to support our forum with her experience and opinion(s) regarding Irish Whiskey and whisky in general, having a vast experience not only in the whisky making process but also in wood, as a former timber merchant.

Moreover, the time is also challenging as we see Irish whiskey to rise again (not to say to explode), sales seem skyrocket and the revival of Irish whiskey is not a dream to come true but a reality that competitors need to face (at least to say) and confront.

Once more thank you for your contribution and we do hope you enjoy the interview sections and topics.

 

On Behalf of the Hellenic Malt Whisky Society and whiskyforum.gr

Ioannis Mallios

Co-founder | President of the HMWS

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HMWS_Mrs. Alex Thomas Interview.pdf

[mallios]

SECTION One – Whiskey and Women

HMWS Question:

In a 2013 book, “Whiskey Women: The Untold Story of How Women Saved Bourbon, Scotch, and Irish Whiskey,” US writer Fred Minnick details how it was women, not men, who were responsible for changing the face of the Scotch whisky industry and turning distilleries into thriving businesses.

Seven years later, in 2020, Becky Pasking started a “movement” to pass the message against sexism in tasting notes, but she also continued this movement and today we have the “Our Whisky Foundation” a new non-profit organisation, established in March 2022, to recognise, support and empower women working in whisky around the world, while advocating for a more inclusive and diverse industry.

Do we really need in 2023 such an organization and do you feel that diversity and inclusion is not the case for women in whisky?

 Mrs Thomas’ (Alex) reply

While the whiskey industry has traditionally been very male-oriented in the past, I do believe this has evolved over the course of my career.

I now have many female peers who have become friends, and I am honoured to play such a key role within the industry. In my experience, I feel I have been warmly welcomed and supported in my role and in the industry as a whole.

I do strongly believe in promoting diversity and inclusion, particularly in honing and supporting the talents and passions of women in the category. There are many significant female trailblazers whom I have been led by and learned from and I hope that my legacy will inspire many women to come.

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SECTION Two. Talking the Old Bushmills - Sexton Whiskey

You started The Sexton Irish Single Malt, so I would appreciate to dig deeper, if possible, and discuss the below topics.

HMWS Question 1:

I listened at this interview, many times the word “create” So, who is actually creating the final spirit that goes into the bottle?

 Mrs Thomas’ (Alex) reply

As Master Blender at Bushmills Irish Whiskey, I am responsible for the selection and management of the casks, nurturing the Bushmills portfolio of premium blends and aged single malts, and new product development. I am the caretaker of these amazing whiskies through their evolution while inside the casks, and I work with our Master Distiller Colum Egan to carefully curate each expression. 

 

HMWS Question 2:

You also mentioned that you use two raw, low protein barley in order to crash is easily and have access to the sugars you want. So, do you control the full process?! Do you have a saying in selected barley and (let’s also bring in the “terroir” buzzword) do you also select the farms and place to grow barley?

 Mrs Thomas’ (Alex) reply

We use two-rowed, low protein barley which has larger kernel sizes and provides 1-2% greater extract than that of six-rowed.  We work closely with our maltster to ensure the barley we are supplied meets the specifications we have in place. The barley is grown by local farmers on the east coast of Ireland – Wexford, Kildare and Athy – giving us the ability to trace every drop of whiskey we create from the grain to the glass.

 

HMWS Question 3:

Vice versa, have you ever found yourself in the position that someone (marketing perhaps) is asking You to change the profile (even slightly) in order to fulfill sales targets or (one step further) to create an easily used whisky e.g., in cocktails?

 Mrs Thomas’ (Alex) reply

Bushmills has a distinct house style and quality that has stood the test of time, so my goal is to preserve this while also bringing an exciting new twist of innovation. Each creation will be unique, influenced by factors such as the target market, the age profile of whiskey I am using, or my desire to achieve a particular flavour profile that no one else has managed to replicate. The ultimate aim is to create an expression that will both excite whiskey lovers and inspire those who are just starting out. These conversations take place in the initial briefing prior to development.

 

HMWS Question 4:

Knowing than not all casks are the same and that (probably) you could also have a cask with no effect on whisky or an overcooked whisky, the question is simple. Can you “hide” a bad cask or even more, can you hide a “bad” not tasting good whisky?

 Mrs Thomas’ (Alex) reply

Maturation in oak casks is critical to the Bushmills taste. We select only the best American oak barrels, Spanish sherry casks, even former port, Madeira or rum barrels – all sourced from selected cooperages, bodegas and distilleries with which Bushmills has partnered for generations. A poor cask will turn a good spirit into a mediocre whiskey.

Therefore, we mature our whiskey as carefully as we distil it, allowing the wood to impart its own flavours and colours into the spirit. 

 

HMWS Question 5:

Did you find yourself in the position of saying “no, this cask shall not be bottled”. If yes, what do you do with these casks?

Mrs Thomas’ (Alex) reply

Bushmills Irish Whiskey is known for its 400 years of quality and taste, so part of my job is ensuring we always meet that high standard. One of the most enjoyable aspects of my role is the freedom to create and experiment. Inevitably, this means that not all liquids will make the cut to launch to market at a particular age.

We give each cask the time it needs to reach its full potential and only release it to market when we feel it has reached a flavour profile that we are looking for. We have a rigorous internal sign-off process and always ensure that we as a collective team are delighted with each expression before it is released.

 

HMWS Question 6:

Do you have a “saying” in distillation process. Knowing the casks and the wood influence do you also ask for specific cuts in order to control expected taste and flavour?

 Mrs Thomas’ (Alex) reply

My expertise is knowing the effect of wood on whiskeys, so the selection of appropriate casks for ageing whiskey is a big part of my role. There is a lot that goes into choosing the right ones, and we have to make sure that each cask brings out the perfect harmony of aromas and rich flavours needed to craft our blends and aged single malts. 

I am prone to experiment with the casks I use. For example, in the 2022 Causeway Collection – my first as Master Blender – we explored some really unique flavours, including a tequila cask and the world’s first-ever vermouth cask-finished Irish single malt.  

 

HMWS Question 7:

You use third fill sherry oloroso casks so that you can control flavors and cask influence. You also mentioned that you blend these casks. So, do you only blend the 3^rd fill casks, or you also have other fills or new / virgin oak that you use to enhance flavors?

 Mrs Thomas’ (Alex) reply

The blending or marrying of casks allows me to balance flavours. We only use our casks three times before we consider them to be exhausted.

This allows me to control the levels of seasoning and wood influences within an expression.

First-fill sherry casks will offer high levels of dried fruit, nuts and caramel. By marrying or blending this with a second- or third-fill sherry cask, you can introduce completely different levels of nuttiness and toasted oak that have been transformed by both the wood and the previously housed spirit that has interacted with it, drawing out the sherry while leaving behind some of its own unique characteristics.

By adding a bourbon cask to the recipe, you then introduce more complex levels of flavour, like vanilla, coconut and milk chocolate that complement the whiskey you are trying to create.

I currently have more than 460,000 casks to play with, made from new and pre-seasoned oak as well as other woods, giving me the potential to create many exquisite whiskeys.

 

HMWS Question 8:

Are the “times” and ingredients disclosed? If yes, can you please tell us:

• Barley variety
• Fermentation times
• Type of yeast
• Distillation times (1^st, 2^nd, 3^rd)
• Cut times
• Water source for bottling

·        Mrs Thomas’ (Alex) reply

These are all closely guarded secrets held by our Master Distiller. 

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SECTION Three. Talking The Old Bushmills – Causeway Distillery

 HMWS Question 1:

A new Distillery, great news and at the same time a lot of messages and buzzwords for whisky afficionados to read, to absorb and digest. To write a few…

• Tradition and innovation sit side-by-side in the latest, Causeway Collection from Bushmills
• The new distillery takes Bushmills’ production capacity from five million litres of alcohol per annum to 11m litres per annum, while retaining the exact whiskey character of the original site.
• Whiskey produced at Causeway will be used to make Bushmills whiskey, not a standalone brand.
• Causeway Distillery has been built using the latest thermal technology, meaning energy use has been cut by 30%.
• Plus, distilling innovations incorporated into the design have increased material consumption efficiency by up to 10%.
• The distillery will be run entirely on electricity from green sources.

This is no longer a romantic, traditional job that you take 3 ingredients and you create whisky. You need to consider Green energy, Zero waste, carbon footprint and at the same time produce the same spirit with the same character.

I made bold the key messages (according to my opinion) from the above. How your role as a master blender has evolved, changed, the last five or ten years and what is the direct effect of all the above in your daily operations and job?

Mrs Thomas’ (Alex) reply

Bushmills proudly stands as the oldest licensed whiskey distillery in the world, and we who work here feel a personal obligation to think and act as industry leaders. We have a duty of care to future-proof the brand by paving the path to more sustainable methods of production. To this end, the new distillery deploys the latest thermal technology, reducing energy usage by 30%, while our new state-of-the-art distilling innovations have also boosted material consumption efficiency by up to 10%. Furthermore, all of our electricity is certified as 100% green, using wind and solar energy sources. 

The launch of our new distillery demonstrates our commitment to growing our brand and supporting the recruitment of incremental consumers which, for me, means more opportunities to share my treasured liquids with more people across the globe.

 

HMWS Question 2:

Going one step further and talking about innovation, would you consider to create an Irish “bourbon”? Would you like to experiment with other cereals such as Irish corn, rye, wheat? 

Mrs Thomas’ (Alex) reply

We are always experimenting and innovating, both with our casks and cereals. As to what the next innovation will be – for now, all I can say is: “watch this space”!

HMWS Question 3:

We are used to read and listen on how “tradition shapes the future” how we “learn from history” and many other similar sayings.

Can you please provide a simple example on the above? How you blend tradition with innovation and how can you use tradition to create something innovative as far as it comes to whisky?

Mrs Thomas’ (Alex) reply

I see it as my obligation to simultaneously pay homage to my predecessors, acting as a custodian for the skill and craftmanship that was passed down to me, but equally to continue exciting and delighting consumers with new innovations. Bushmills is a 415-year-old brand and with that comes the need to stay relevant.

We don’t take our position in the market for granted and we are dedicated to surprising our customers with exciting new product developments, such as our new 25 & 30 Year Old Single Malts – our oldest and rarest permanent expressions to date – which we launched earlier this year.

 

HMWS Question 4:

Ten years ago, we had about 5 or 6 distilleries in Ireland and Northern Ireland. Now we have more than 40 and more to come. Where do you see Irish whiskey in 10 years from now and what place will the Old Bushmills and the Causeway have?

Mrs Thomas’ (Alex) reply

It is a very exciting time right now to be operating within Irish whiskey, and the category as a whole has experienced a real surge.

Testament to this, our sales volumes at Bushmills have grown globally by 10% in 2022, passing one million cases in a calendar year for the first time, and I don’t envisage this slowing down any time soon.

The advent of new players is making the category more vibrant and in turn encouraging the recruitment of incremental consumers to the Irish whiskey category.  

I believe that innovation has acted as a catalyst for growth and will remain a key contributing factor driving the Irish whiskey category in years to come.

At Bushmills, we are continuing to focus on new product development. We want to give people a real experience when they are drinking Bushmills, which is why premiumisation continues to be a trend and a priority for us.

We are seeing significant global demand for our prestige single malts, and developing this segment remains our long-term focus for the Bushmills brand. 

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SECTION Five. Talking Whisky in General

HMWS Question 1:

The concept of terroir has been of increasing concern for the industry in recent years. Terroir has gained fanatical supporters but also fierce enemies.

Some argue that studying the factors that make up a terroir can go a long way in shaping a defined taste character, while others see it as just another weapon in the marketing product mix.

What is your opinion? In which areas can terroir be applied (raw materials, barley, peat, oak origin, other)?

Mrs Thomas’ (Alex) reply

We are very passionate about our Irish roots and have been making Bushmills using the same ingredients for over 415 years. We believe it is these ingredients that have made our brand so popular and the reason we have survived through many challenging times where others could not. 

From our Irish malted barley and our water source of Saint Columb’s Rill, to the casks we use to mature our spirit in our warehouses, we believe they all play a part in making us unique.

HMWS Question 2:

Sherry casks, sherry infused casks, pomerol casks, vermouth casks, fortified wine, red wine, chinquapin, mizunara oak, first fill, second fill, liquid yeast, brewers’ yeast, own developed yeast, warehouse microclimate and so many others. If You were to select 2 or 3 attributes that you consider the most important to say “YES, we can bottle this whisky”, what will they be?

Mrs Thomas’ (Alex) reply

For me, the key attributes are taste, aroma and time, whether this be for a brand that already exists or something new I want to create.

Ensuring that the characteristics of the whiskey we are currently bottling are the same as they were in the past is of utmost importance. When creating something new, I am looking for a taste and aroma that complements our spirit without overpowering it. Giving each cask the time it needs to gain the characteristics needed is something we are very proud of, and we will never release anything for bottling unless it is of the highest possible standard.

 I.M. comment.

Mrs Thomas selected the above two topics to provide her feedback, among the ones provided.

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SECTION Six. Talking Alex Thomas

HMWS Question 1:

Simply put, can you please tell us how is one typical day of Master Blender Alex Thomas?

Mrs Thomas’ (Alex) reply

The wonderful thing about my life in whiskey is that no two days are the same.  As they say, variety is the spice of life, and I am extremely fortunate to get to experience so many different parts of the industry.

My day begins with my favourite part: lifting samples from casks in the maturing warehouses. I get to wander around the warehouse, breathing in those rich aromas as the casks quietly rest. I care for each cask while it is in the warehouses to ensure each is maturing to our high standards. 

Once the samples are lifted, they go off to the lab for analysis. I review the colour, aroma and taste of each sample to see how the maturing process is proceeding. Only when it has acquired all the characteristics needed will I release it for bottling. 

I then spend a few hours on calls with our amazing cask supplier to discuss requirements for the coming years and to plan in my next site visit to monitor their progress.

I’m always thinking about today as well as the years to come, so I need to ensure I secure casks for the future to meet our long-term plans for our much-loved brand.

Brand education is an exciting part of a Master Blenders role. I get to take fellow whiskey enthusiasts, bartenders and marketing teams on a journey so they can spread the story of our amazing portfolio and share their opinions on our amazing Irish single malts and blends.

For me, the best part of being a Master Blender is the moment the spirit has reached the required maturity and is ready to be released from the cask for bottling.

In disgorging, I get to smell those amazing aromas and see the rich dark colour of the whiskey as I roll the barrel over and watch the liquid flow free.

Once released from the cask it has patiently rested in, the whiskey is filtered and reduced in strength in preparation for bottling.  To see and hear the bottles as they clink their way along the bottling line is a proud moment, and knowing that they are about to be filled with something I have lovingly cared for is the most amazing feeling. The fact that they will journey on to be enjoyed by many people all over the world brings a smile to my face.

Not many work days end at 5pm, but when you love what you do, it really doesn’t feel right to call it work! It is a passion and a privilege to be part of creating something other people will enjoy while making memories with their friends and family. Bushmills is part of my life story and it is there to be enjoyed while you write yours.

 

HMWS Question 2:

“Meet the maker”  https://storiesandsips.com/meet-the-maker-alex-thomas-bushmills/

Is this just a marketing concept? Do you really enjoy meeting people during the Distillery tour and what is the key message you try to pass to visitors?

Mrs Thomas’ (Alex) reply

I was born in Ballymoney, just 15 minutes from the Old Bushmills Distillery. Growing up, it was always my dream to work at the world’s oldest licensed whiskey distillery on my doorstep. 

Today, I am immensely proud to be Master Blender at Bushmills and to speak to people about my deepest passion, which is Irish whiskey.

I am honoured to be its custodian, its innovator, a part of its history and – most importantly – to have the opportunity to share its story and great whiskeys with people. I get to inspire those who already love Bushmills and intrigue those who have yet to experience its delights with the whiskeys I create. 

HMWS Question 3:

You began your career working as a timber merchant in your hometown, just 15 minutes from the Old Bushmills Distillery, where you spent over 10 years learning about different types of woods. Do not know if our common friend from Irish Whiskey Magazine, Mr.Serghios Florides had the chance to update you but we did manage to send some casks from Greece to Ireland, previously holding Greek sweet wine from Santorini, the famous Vinsanto and Ampeliastos.

https://www.irishwhiskeymagazine.com/news/latest-news/green-spot-boutari-release/

https://mitchellandson.com/pages/green-spot-single-cask

The combination of French oak casks from Limousin Forest and the Greek sweet wine worked really well. Would you consider adding in your playground another wine producing country and experiment with different flavors?

Moreover, which are the key drivers that would make you say “YES” to an experiment with a new wine variety and wine producing country?

Mrs Thomas’ (Alex) reply

I am always looking for new opportunities to experiment with different woods and seasonings. Our spirit is so delicate and complex that it really lends itself to experimentation in many different ways.

I am honoured to have been handed down 415 years of knowledge on our brands. Alongside my passion to push the boundaries of what is possible, “yes” is a word I use often when I discover a new wine variety.

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SECTION Seven: Hellenic Malt Whisky Society

HMWS Question

We formed the society back in 2010 with our only aim to take over and support whiskyforum.gr (dating back to 2006) and maintain this forum an open, free for all, continuous improving thinktank for whisky friends in Greece and abroad.  We are honoured to have You participating in our Interviews section, so we would appreciate to have a message from You to our members.

Mrs Thomas’ (Alex) reply

Bushmills has been around for more than four centuries and survived through many hardships over the years thanks to its loyal followers. I would like to say a heartfelt thank you to all of the members of the Hellenic Malt Whisky Society for your interest, love and support for the brand and I hope I can meet some of you at the distillery soon.

[Makis]

Συγχαρητήρια για την συνέντευξη! Μερικές ενδιαφέρουσες απαντήσεις και κάποιες που είναι αφόρητες γενικολογιες - αοριστολογιες. Δεν καταλαβαίνω πχ γιατί δεν επέλεξε να κάνει skip κάποιες ερωτήσεις από το να απαντάει άλλα αντί άλλων...

[mallios]

1 hour ago, Makis said:

Δεν καταλαβαίνω πχ γιατί δεν επέλεξε να κάνει skip κάποιες ερωτήσεις από το να απαντάει άλλα αντί άλλων...

Εχουν γίνει skip αρκετές. 

Σε κάθε περίπτωση, μιλάμε για μια συνέντευξη που έπρεπε να πάρει έγκριση και την διαχειρίστηκε η εταιρεία που έχει το branding του ομίλου (η οποία είναι αρκετά μεγάλη θα έλεγα). Οπότε το τι βγήκε προς τα έξω σε σχέση με το τι είχε σταλεί, έχει κάποια διαφορά. 

Σημαντικό (για μια ακόμα φορά) το γεγονός ότι όλοι αυτοί οι άνθρωποι (και μιλάω για όλους όσους έχουν τιμήσει την HMWS και το forum με την συμμετοχή τους) είναι ευγενέστατοι, δεκτικοί, θέλουν να έχουν σχέσεις με κοινότητες φίλων και συμμετέχουν. 

Και όπως λέει και η Alex, με χαρά να μας δεχτεί στο Bushmills και εκεί θα μπορέσουμε να ρωτήσουμε και ότι άλλο θέλουμε. Γενικά η Ιρλανδία είναι ένα νησί που το έχουμε παραμελήσει λίγο, εκτός από τον @Celtic δεν ξέρω αν έχει πάει σε αποστακτήρια κάποιος άλλος και ενδεχομένως να έπρεπε να το δούμε πιο ζεστά, ένα ταξίδι εκεί. 

Σχέσεις υπάρχουν (πάρα πολλές) οπότε κάτι ενδεχομένως να μπορούσε να γίνει.

[Alkisd8]

Πρώτον συγχαρητήρια και πάλι @malliosγια την συνέντευξη. Οτιδήποτε έρχεται εδώ μέσα αποτελεί πηγή γνώσης. Καταλαβαίνω ότι σαν μια μεγάλη εταιρία που είναι κάποιες ερωτήσεις έγιναν skip αλλά βρήκα πολλές απαντήσεις στερεότυπες και γενικές επίσης .Πολύ εύστοχα είπε @Makis σαν να πάει για πολιτικός μιλούσε. Υποθέτω ότι αν πάμε από κοντά εκεί που δεν θα δεσμεύεται από τα στεγανά τις εταιρίας θα γίνει πολύ πιο ουσιώδης οσον αφορά τις απαντήσεις τής. 

[mallios]

12 minutes ago, Alkisd8 said:

Οτιδήποτε έρχεται εδώ μέσα αποτελεί πηγή γνώσης.

Θα έλεγα ότι κάποιες ναι, κάποιες όχι. Είναι σίγουρα ένδειξη εκτίμησης για αυτό που γίνεται εδώ. Από εκεί και πέρα, κάποιοι μένουν πιστοί στα πρωτόκολλα επικοινωνίας και κάποιοι τσαλακώνονται πιο άνετα.

Απλά να καταλάβουμε (manage expectations το λένε στο χωριό μου) ότι δεν ξέρουν όλοι το φορουμ, ούτε την ποιότητα, ούτε το επίπεδο γνώσης που υπάρχει εδώ ενώ μια συνέντευξη που θα βγεί στον αέρα είναι πολύ πιο ¨δύσκολη¨ από μια συζήτηση face to face. 

Για εμένα είναι σημαντικό ότι ακόμα μια γυναίκα της παραγωγής, με τεράστια ευθύνη και εμπειρία έμαθε για το forum και την HMWS, βρίσκεται εδώ και θα έχουμε και την δυνατότητα να την βρούμε και εκεί.

@Alkisd8 @Makis ευχαριστώ για τα καλά λόγια, δεν είναι προσωπικό μου το θέμα των συνεντεύξεων φυσικά.

Δεν είχα όρεξη να ασχοληθώ με συνεντεύξεις εδώ και πολύ καιρό για δικούς μου λόγους. Ελπίζω να υπάρξει ανάλογη συνέχεια, ήδη προσπαθώ κάποια πράγματα.